Thanks to Erika Weston on About.com, Jazzmotorsport, and Mark Polk for the winterizing tips.

Boat Winterizing:

By carefully winterizing a boat’s drive system, you can save yourself thousands of dollars in repairs and the frustration of poor performance in the spring. Follow these steps to winterizing your boat’s drive system, and when warm weather arrives once again you will be out on the water in no time.

To Winterize Well, Plan Ahead and Use A Checklist

Before you begin, plan ahead by gathering all the necessary items to perform the task. Use a convenient checklist to keep the process organized and to ensure each step is completed whether you do the work or you hire a professional. Add to the checklist tasks or specific products recommended by the manufacturer manual.

Change the Engine and Drive Train Oil

After running your boat all summer, it’s likely that water, acids and other byproducts have built up. It’s important to change the oil to prevent corrosion and excessive wear which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel economy or engine failure. Use a manual or electric oil changing system to make draining the oil easier, then add new oil according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Run the engine to circulate the oil through the system. At the same time you change the oil, be sure to change the oil filter. Change the oil in transmission or the outboard’s lower unit as well.

Add Antifreeze to an Inboard Cooling Systems

To protect the engine against damage from freezing, run antifreeze through the engine. For the best protection, drain as much water as possible and use a marine engine grade antifreeze - either one rated to -60 degrees or -100 degrees. Do not dilute the antifreeze or it will not perform correctly, which can be costly to you.

Inboards: Before adding antifreeze, start the engines to warm them up. After the engines are warm, close the seacock and open the strainer to flush the water. Finally, add the antifreeze. For smaller inboard motors, using a flush kit can make it easier to get the antifreeze into the motor. For larger inboards, one way is to start the engine and quickly pour the antifreeze in while it’s running. Do not let the engine run for more than a few seconds without antifreeze. This method usually works best with 2 people, but if it’s only you, try disconnecting the cooling hose from the thru-hull, and placing it in a large bucket filled with antifreeze and run the engine. Add the antifreeze until you see it come of the exhaust.

Outboards: Purchase a winterizing kit from your local marine supply store that contains a bucket, hose and fittings. Connect the hose and fittings and use them to suck the antifreeze out of the bucket and into the engine.

Fog the Engine Cylinders

To protect the inside of the engine until spring, you must fog the engine to protect its moving parts. You can spray them into the carburetor while the engine is running or apply it through spark plugs holes while the engine is turned over. Consult the engine’s manual, a mechanic or the manufacturer to find out which method to use for your engine.

Treat the Fuel System

Experts disagree on the best method for winterizing a boat’s fuel system. One method is to empty the fuel tank completely, which is extremely difficult. The second method, generally preferred by boaters, is to empty the fuel tank as much as possible and then refill it to leave as little room as possible. Once the tank is full, treat the fuel with a with a biocide (for diesels) or a stabilizer (for all engines). After adding it to the fuel, run the engine for 10 minutes or so to be sure stabilized fuel circulates throughout the engine.

Caring for the Batteries

If your boat is small enough, simply disconnect the batteries and bring them home, add distilled water and charge them occasionally. For larger boats, disconnect the batteries, add distilled water and then periodically reconnect and charge them using shore power.

By following the directions to winterizing your boat’s engine, you are ensuring the best possible performance from your boat’s propulsion system. Next, winterize the hull and interior of the boat so when spring arrives, you can be confident that the steps you took in the fall will mean less hassle before getting out on the water again.

PWC Winterization

1. Pull the drain plugs and remove all water from the hull. At this point you may also want to wash your engine compartment and outer hull. Make sure to get ALL the water out of the hull. Any water left inside the engine compartment will cause condensation and corrosion on your engine.
2. If you ride in salt water. Flush your watercrafts cooling system with Salt-Away. This prevents internal engine corrosion.
3. Add Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer to your watercrafts fuel tank.
4. Fog the engine with marine grade engine fogging oil. Start the engine and spray the fogging oil into the carburetor. Running the engine at this point will also circulate the stabilized fuel into the fuel lines and carburetors. Fog for 10-15 seconds and shut the engine down. Turn your fuel switch to the OFF position.
5. Remove the driveline cover and grease all fittings on the driveline with a grease gun. Re-install your driveline cover.
6. If you own a Sea-Doo, now is the time to change your pump oil. It is better to do when winterizing rather than in the spring. If any water has entered the pump oil you don t want it sitting in there all winter and ruining your pump bearings. To do this, disconnect your steering cable, trim cable, and reverse cable. Next remove the steering and exit nozzles. Then remove the pump cone. Let all of the old oil drain out. Reinstall the pump cone (make sure to inspect the O-ring and seal it with Loctite 518 or equivalent). Refill the pump cone through the filler hole (set screw) with Sea-Doo Pump Oil or equivalent synthetic gear lube.
7. At this point, if you store your area where the temperature will drop below freezing, add 50/50 water-antifreeze mix to the cooling system. Disconnect the water in-line from the cylinder head. Connect a hose with a funnel on the other end. Pour in antifreeze until it comes out the outlet of the cooling system. Make sure the antifreeze you use is aluminum safe. Most newer antifreeze brands are.
8. Lube all of your cables, spray down your pump, and lube your steering system with silicon spray lube.
9. Spray down your engine with silicon spray lube. A light coating is all you need to protect it from corrosion.
10. Make any notes of problems that should be addressed before you go riding next spring.

RV Winterizing

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV antifreeze (The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do).
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A wand to clean out holding tanks.
• A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

• If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. If your RV doesn’t have a built in tank flushing system clean the black tank out with a wand, or use a product like Flush King that allows you to clean both the black and gray tanks. Lubricate the termination valves with WD 40.
• Drain the water heater. Remove the drain plug and open the pressure relief valve.CAUTION (never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure)
• Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
• Locate and open the low point drain lines. There will be one for the hot and cold water lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
• Recap all drains and close all faucets.
• By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.
• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank). Connect a piece of clear tubing to the inlet side of the pump and put the other end into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
• Repeat this process on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower, if equipped.
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element make sure it is turned off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
• Make sure all the faucets are closed.
• Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.
• The unit is winterized.

This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.

Visit www.4SeasonsPowerToys.com to learn how you can get access to all the recreational vehicles you want, or to have them winterized!

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